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Trends:Experts

Ingredients in the news: cannabidiolSubscribers only

Even though cannabidiol has been gaining ground in cosmetics since 2020, it does raise questions. That’s why Estelle Dehier, from Labosphère, has chosen to focus on the continuation (and end) of the series devoted to these ingredients that are the talk of the town.

Ingredients in the news: TalcSubscribers only

Another chapter in the series by Labosphère’s Estelle Dehier on ingredients that are the talk of the town: once considered harmless, or even very popular, then caught up in the turmoil of safety warnings, before eventually being overtaken by regulations, restrictions and even bans… Episode 2 is devoted to talcum powder.

Ingredients in the news: salicylic acidSubscribers only

Some cosmetic ingredients are all the rage and are all the rage for years, but then cosmetovigilance reveals certain problems or toxicological requirements come into play, the regulatory axe falls, and the “flagship” ingredient becomes the one that absolutely must be boycotted. The first episode in this series by Estelle Dehier, from Labosphère: salicylic acid.

How to assess the safety of innovative cosmetic ingredients?Subscribers only

Cosmetic regulations require cosmetic products to be safe for human health under normal and reasonably foreseeable conditions of use. Before a product is placed on the market, a safety assessment must be carried out and signed off by a safety assessor. To do this, a range of data must be studied. A Toxicological Reference Value, generally derived from an animal study, must be determined for each s...

Misleading the consumerSubscribers only

The claims made on cosmetic product labels (and on all communication media, for that matter!) are clearly governed by European cosmetics regulations. They must be proven and justified in the Product Information Dossier (PIF) of the cosmetic product being developed. Estelle Dehier, from Labosphère, explains.
Tuesday, November 6, 2018
More beautiful skin: a reflection on placebo effects and efficacy studies in cosmeticsSubscribers only
This mood note was inspired by listening, a little distracted at first, then more attentively and even repetitively in a later stage, to a program of ...
Tuesday, September 18, 2018
Preserving the preservatives?Subscribers only
In a recent information, we are told that the cosmetic preservative market is expected to grow exponentially to US$1.4 billion by 2024, despite the hi...
Tuesday, May 22, 2018
The tyranny of convenience or the sheep victorySubscribers only
After a few periods of ill humour due to practices I do not really support, because they are associated with insidiously tyrannical approaches, like t...
Tuesday, April 24, 2018
The best of the beauty worlds!Subscribers only
In 1932, Aldous Huxley tried to imagine what the future beauty world would be like. He said that this world should be perfumed and that cellulite woul...
Tuesday, April 10, 2018
AI: not easy to make sense of it, and yet!Subscribers only
I am sure regular readers of our mood notes were not surprised by the recent news about the notion of Artificial Intelligence (AI). For those that do ...
Monday, April 2, 2018
Cosmetics and Epigenetics: deciphering the genetic dream, between regulations and marketingSubscribers only
Cosmetics formulation requires being familiar with regulations, but also with most diverse disciplines including Biology, Physiology, Galenics, Toxico...
Wednesday, March 14, 2018
Mamamouchi nail varnish!
I recently discussed a much talked-about subject, ‘new varnish’, with one of the people we spent some of our time with working on nail varnish. Specia...
Wednesday, February 14, 2018
Formulating differently?
These terms are more and more frequently used when certain players in our trade express their concerns. They even end up constituting a unique way of ...
Wednesday, February 7, 2018
The future of cyclomethicones (or ‘the extinction of dinosaurs’)Subscribers only
‘CosmeticOBS did me the honour of asking what I thought about the future of cyclomethicones. Well, in my humble opinion, there is none.’ Dr Frédéric L...
Monday, October 9, 2017
Skin microbiota evaluation: the methods Subscribers only
Since the discovery of the intestinal microbiota, the question of the skin microbiota (micro-organisms, bacteria, viruses, fungi, yeasts), is under ev...
Wednesday, September 27, 2017
The cosmetics industry innovates……………… at last!!!!!
This mood note’s title may sound provocative or rather cheeky, but to me, it does reflect reality. Indeed, our industry always boasts about being inno...
Wednesday, June 21, 2017
Towards new utopias, or the croissant technique?
Progress in general, whether it is technical, scientific, or more specifically social, has made us get used to being offered advances, a few of which ...
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