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Trends:Experts

Ingredients in the news: cannabidiolSubscribers only

Even though cannabidiol has been gaining ground in cosmetics since 2020, it does raise questions. That’s why Estelle Dehier, from Labosphère, has chosen to focus on the continuation (and end) of the series devoted to these ingredients that are the talk of the town.

Ingredients in the news: TalcSubscribers only

Another chapter in the series by Labosphère’s Estelle Dehier on ingredients that are the talk of the town: once considered harmless, or even very popular, then caught up in the turmoil of safety warnings, before eventually being overtaken by regulations, restrictions and even bans… Episode 2 is devoted to talcum powder.

Ingredients in the news: salicylic acidSubscribers only

Some cosmetic ingredients are all the rage and are all the rage for years, but then cosmetovigilance reveals certain problems or toxicological requirements come into play, the regulatory axe falls, and the “flagship” ingredient becomes the one that absolutely must be boycotted. The first episode in this series by Estelle Dehier, from Labosphère: salicylic acid.

How to assess the safety of innovative cosmetic ingredients?Subscribers only

Cosmetic regulations require cosmetic products to be safe for human health under normal and reasonably foreseeable conditions of use. Before a product is placed on the market, a safety assessment must be carried out and signed off by a safety assessor. To do this, a range of data must be studied. A Toxicological Reference Value, generally derived from an animal study, must be determined for each s...

Misleading the consumerSubscribers only

The claims made on cosmetic product labels (and on all communication media, for that matter!) are clearly governed by European cosmetics regulations. They must be proven and justified in the Product Information Dossier (PIF) of the cosmetic product being developed. Estelle Dehier, from Labosphère, explains.
Thursday, July 22, 2021
Formulator: a profession in constant evolutionSubscribers only
The profession of independent formulator has had to adapt very quickly with its time since the last thirty years. Today, he is no longer “satisfied” w...
Thursday, June 24, 2021
The profession of cosmetics formulator: from yesterday to todaySubscribers only
“The pandemic and the containment allowed us to take a look at this job that we have been passionate about for over 16 years, that of cosmetic product...
Wednesday, June 2, 2021
The objectification of maskne and acne blemish claimsSubscribers only
Skin imperfections classically cover a wide range of visible alterations of the skin, caused by a variety of causes. And today, the wearing of the mas...
Monday, May 10, 2021
Nanos today: definitions, harmonisation, formulator's challengesSubscribers only
“One of the most important issues that we deal with on a daily basis as a laboratory for the development of tailor-made cosmetic products is nanomater...
Thursday, March 25, 2021
Home-made and personalised cosmetics: regulatory and toxicological issuesSubscribers only
In recent years, there has been a surge in “homemade” and customisable, even ultra-customisable, cosmetics. The lockdown caused by the Covid-19 pandem...
Wednesday, February 17, 2021
Hydroalcoholic gels: what you really need to know!Subscribers only
For almost a year now, the use of hydroalcoholic products has been part of our daily routine, several times a day. During an inspection campaign, the ...
Thursday, January 14, 2021
A short regulatory tour of the world for formulatorsSubscribers only
When we develop a cosmetic product, we think about galenics, texture, technical constraints, efficiency… but not only that! The formulator must also t...
Thursday, December 10, 2020
Gemmology: a stone in the cosmetic edificeSubscribers only
Today’s cosmetics industry prides itself on regularly creating new concepts or inventing new positioning. Nowadays, it is common to find, in the so-ca...
Thursday, December 3, 2020
The different challenges of solid cosmeticsSubscribers only
When we talk about solid cosmetics, we know that the consumer who is going to buy and use these products is motivated by curiosity to discover new gal...
Thursday, November 26, 2020
The toxicologist expert... for the safety of all!Subscribers only
The use of cosmetics is universal and certainly dates back to ancient times. In contemporary times, the use of cosmetics is taking off with the scient...
Monday, November 16, 2020
Upcycling, as seen by Jean-Claude Le JoliffSubscribers only
Upcycling, the process of recovering unused or waste raw materials and transforming them into value-added ingredients, is a current trend. As is often...
Thursday, October 29, 2020
Solid cosmetics: manufacturing processes and challenges for the formulatorSubscribers only
Cosmetic products in solid form are more than a fashion, they are a market reality. As a reminder, in four years, the market for solid cosmetics has i...
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